Ancient Greece and the Angel of the North

County Durham's Monument Valley

As Roger Whittaker sang, we have to ‘leave old Durham town’.

It might be a mere fifteen-minute dash between Durham and Newcastle, but this is County Durham’s very own Monument Valley. We have visions of Ancient Greece. A haunted castle. The outspread wings of the Angel of the North. And a crossing of the Tyne, that is simply breathtaking.

Fifteen minutes. Is there a better value for money rail journey for those who love to gaze from railway carriages?

The keen eyed traveller will spot on a Durham hillside an unlikely vision of Ancient Greece. It is the Penshaw Monument, a folly dedicated to the memory of John Lambton, 1st Earl of Durham. Even though it is a classical monument, serene and stately, it remembers Lambton, who was nicknamed ‘Radical Jack’ for his support of the Reform Act of 1832, which reshaped MPs constituencies and expanded voting rights. The monument was completed in 1845 and was inspired by the Temple of Hephaestus in Athens.

From Ancient Greece to the Angel of the North, Durham’s Own Monument Valley

Next on this monumental dash between Durham and Newcastle is the now iconic Angel of the North. The vast wings of the Angel unfurl themselves above the tracks. Today one of Britain’s most recognisable pieces of public art, its open arms reflecting the warmth of the people of the North East of England.

And yet, when the bold design was unveiled, it, perhaps predictably, attracted scandalised headlines. Even by tabloid newspaper standards, this one featured ludicrous claims, which included carnage on the adjacent A1, interference with radio and television signals and the likening of the Angel to 1930s Nazi Germany.

Of course, the locals still watch their televisions, the traffic flows freely on the A1 and there have been no reports of torch light parades on the streets of Gateshead.

The crossing of the River Tyne is yet another visual drama. Seven bridges criss cross the river and to the west is Dunstan Staiths, the biggest wooden construction in Europe and once the heartbeat of coal exports.

In my recently released book, On the Tracks of the Flying Scotsman, there is much more about County Durham’s Monument Valley. I’ve not mentioned Chester-le-Street, Tyne Yard, the Team Valley and Gateshead in this snippet!

It will be Newcastle and its glorious station in the next post.

Over the coming year I’ll be travelling the length of the route, giving talks on the journey and indeed my own journey, from signalman to author. If you have a bookshop, organise speakers at your local venue or run a literature festival, please get in touch.

Have rail pass, will travel!